Friday, July 29, 2016

Rocky Mountain National Park

   Our final park of the trip was Rocky Mountain National Park. After visiting eighteen other parks, it was bittersweet and thankfully we left the prettiest for last. We had spent some time in the Rockies while staying at Glacier National Park, but this part of the mountain range has higher peaks and more meadows instead of lakes.


    All of the campsites at the park were full so we had reserved a site at a county campground. We had to go down a dirt road about two miles but the scenery was great. It was a primitive campground with no running water so Adrienne was quite the trooper. But it was our final camping stop of the trip so we sucked it up and enjoyed the solitude. It also helped that I found a sink elsewhere in the park by a day use area!

    We awoke early the next day to drive into Rocky Mountain. We had read about the large crowds so we wanted to be able to find parking at the trailhead we chose the day before. It was already full though so we had to park in another lot and take a shuttle bus to the trail. Turns out it was worth it. The crowds that I was worried about never materialized even though it was a popular hike.

    We made our way uphill for about half a mile before we came across the first of three lakes. Sully got an energy boost by throwing rocks into it and then we moved on. The kids loved timing their breaks with large rocks to climb on alongside the trail. The second lake was the prettiest with a greenish-blue hue to the water. We spent a bit of time relaxing there before pushing on to the last.


    Before getting to the final lake we hard to power through a steep part of the trail, but that also meant the stream connecting them turned into a fun waterfall coursing along a giant slab of rock that we could scramble up. Sully and Emma found a steep part that acted as a slide while Riley decided to sit and take a break at the bottom. The last stretch of trip was flatter so we made to the final lake while breathing easier.


    It was the most scenic lake I've ever been to. The peaks of a few mountains rose straight up from the water and we were right at the treeline so it was all gray stone with a little bit of snow at the top. If we had been able to set up camp there I don't think I would ever leave. But the kids were getting hungry so we had to turn back. The downhill trip was much easier, but I don't think Sully's legs could've made any farther. They all did great on this challenging hike of over three and a half miles.

    We sneaked into a campground to use their bathrooms with running water before finding an idyllic spot for a picnic lunch. We ate under a big ponderosa pine in a meadow with the mountains providing a backdrop. After we were all full it was time for the drive to the top of the park.


    The Alpine Ridge Road is similar to the Going to the Sun Road in Glacier by way of steep inclines and a general disregard for guard rails. I wasn't looking forward to it as we climbed in elevation. At certain points, the white line looked to be painted on top of thin air but we slowly made our way up. At least we had perfect weather in this park for the drive. After a couple of stops at scenic viewpoints, we made it to the visitor center located along a peak in alpine tundra. It was a beautiful spot and had a trail that led to the highest point in the park with having to backpack. Somehow, the kids ran ahead of us and made it to the top where the elevation is 12,005 feet. That's two and a half miles higher than our low point in Death Valley.


    Our trip back down led us to two large herds of elk grazing on another expanse of tundra and not far from there we spied four stunning male elk with giant antlers. Before exiting the park we rewarded each kid with a stuffed animal from the final visitor center. They had been asking at every stop for the past five weeks so they were very happy. On the road to our campground we came across two young bull elk that ignored us as they grazed yards from the car.

    We woke up early on our final camping day and packed away all of our equipment. While leaving the campground we had two adult elk right on the edge of the road which was a great way to leave. We couldn't stay long though because we had to find a quick breakfast before finding a place to go horseback riding.

    We had been trying to take the kids horseback riding for what seemed like the entire trip. The rain up north made it impossible and the heat in Utah put a squash on it. But Rocky Mountain was the perfect mix of sunny, moderate weather and amazing views. Each of us were paired up with a horse and led on a private trail ride once we found a corral with availabilities.


    Sully had a little trouble getting his horse to follow so our guide tethered him which made it easier. We had a peaceful ride through an open forest and I got to enjoy watching Adrienne's ornery horse give her problems! The girls were great and looked like pros on their horses. Once the ride ended we said our goodbyes to Colorado and started making our way back east.

Great Sand Dunes National Park

    We had a long drive from our hotel in Gunnison, which was the worst non-camping night of the trip, to the Great Sand Dunes National Park. As with the rest of Colorado, it was a beautiful ride and the weather was great. We made it to the park late in the morning and started with a stop in the visitor center.


    The park is not just the giant sand dunes that are visible from quite a distance, but also encompasses the mountains behind them that rise above the treeline. We only planned to visit the dunes though. A short drive from the visitor center brought us to the sand field. Before getting to the dunes we had to walk through the shallow stream that separates the sand from the meadows. The kids had a great time once they took their sandals off and we all splashed around as we moved along.


    Sully had a hard time walking through the sand so Adrienne took him back to the stream while the girls and I trekked on. The scale is hard to see in pictures, but it was a really long distance to get to the dunes. But the girls were troopers and we made it to the top of the first dune. The sun was hot out on the sand so we returned to the coolness of the stream to cool our feet. It wasn't a very long visit, but we had a surprisingly good time!


Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

   We got to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park late in the day after a long ride from Mesa Verde. The visitor center was already closed so we were bummed that we couldn't get our books stamped, but the kids seemed happy to get a break from postcards!


    The park is set up from the south side of the canyon as a driving loop with scenic viewpoints down in the the canyon. It's a narrow canyon with really dramatic cliffs. It was very pretty after all of the desert stuff we had been seeing. The highlight for the kids though was a cut-out of a park ranger where they could stick their faces in and force us to take their picture.


    We walked down to an amazing overlook that allowed you to see the Gunnison river and the dark cliffs that give the park its name. The kids spotted a rabbit on the way back up which made their day. Another short visit, but it was a pretty one!

Mesa Verde National Park


    We were all looking forward to a visit to Mesa Verde National Park. It was great to finally cross into Colorado and leave the deserts of Utah behind. By the time we got to the visitor center the line for guided tours was quite long and me missed out them. We instead chose a few stops in the park where you could walk among the ruins of the cliff dwellings and see others from across the canyons.


    Our first stop was a short, one-mile walk down from the top of the mesa into a partially excavated cliff dwelling. We got to see the remains of houses, meeting places, and food storage buildings. It was all really neat how they built everything with sandstone blocks and wood.


    After our walk the kids completed a junior ranger activity about the cliff dwellings and they all earned a badge to wear for the rest of the trip. We then drove to the most impressive dwelling and got to enjoy it from an overlook. A couple of more stops followed and then we made the long, winding drive off of the mesa and out of the park. It was definitely a change from all of the geologic wonders we had been seeing in Utah.

Canyonlands National Park

    Canyonlands National Park is located in south-central Utah and is broken into three main parts due to the Colorado and Green rivers meeting inside of it. Since we had just visited Arches, we could only get to the Needles district without backtracking across half of the state.


    The Needles district is named after the prominent spikes of rock that line the tops of the canyons we drove through to get to the visitor center. It's a popular destination for four-wheel drive vehicles, but we didn't feel like getting a flat in the brutal heat so we stuck to the main road. To be honest the scenery seemed a bit repetitive after all of the Great Basin desert we had been traveling through.


    The highlight of the park was a small stop on the way in. The site is called Newspaper Rock and it contains petroglyphs from ancient paleo-indians, more recent tribes and even some pioneers scratched names and pictures into it. It was fun to see all of the varying stuff and nothing overlapped so it seemed like each person just wanted to add their mark.

Arches National Park

     Our trip to Arches National Park started early. We were on the road well before dawn from Capitol Reef because we had a long day ahead of us and we wanted to beat the heat. The forecast for Arches said the temperature would exceed 100 degrees by noon so we wanted to get our hikes in early.


    Everybody slept in the car while I drove and the kids weren't too happy when I woke them up for our picture at the park entrance. But we fed them a quick breakfast and checked out the visitor center before heading up into the mountains where the arches are.


    Our first little hike took us to an overlook of Delicate Arch, which is probably the most iconic one in the park. Its popularity was evident by the stream of people around it so we didn't linger for too long. It was already hot and the kids weren't happy about this park.

    Our next stop was Sand Dune Arch. We took a short trail into the shade of a slot canyon and suddenly we were walking through a beach. Windblown sand gets piled up in this place so the hard desert floor was replaced by a fun trek into a cool and shadowy place. The kids took their shoes off and ran around as we made our was to the arch. After checking that out we ventured a little farther in and the kids found literal tons of rocks to play and climb on.


   That changed everyone's mood and we enjoyed the rest of the morning with a couple of other stops to see the sights. Arches is one of the smallest parks we've been to so it only took a few hours to enjoy what it had to offer. And the little Sand Dune Arch was quickly added to our list of favorite things on this trip.

Monday, July 25, 2016

Capitol Reef National Park

    Capitol Reef was a park that I knew nothing about before our trip, but it turned into a nice surprise. We decided to give the kids a treat and stayed at a resort just outside of the park for a couple of nights. There were wagons equipped with bunk beds and a king-sized bed that we could stay in along with a pool so everyone was excited.


    Capitol Reef is all about geology at first glance, but a big park of the park turned out to be its history of people trying to live there. We got to see petroglyphs made thousands of years ago by some of the first inhabitants as well as explore the remnants of a Mormon settlement. We were even able to pick fruit from the orchards that were originally established by the pioneering families.


    We took a scenic drive with a detour down a dirt road into a canyon. An abandoned uranium mine from the early 20th century was fun to check out, but nobody but me would get close to the entrance. Those radioactive warning signs do tend to encourage people to turn around!


    The pool was a big hit after a hot day among the rocks. We all sat around the fire pit on our last night and enjoyed a beautiful sunset. Once the kids were asleep were were surprised to hear fireworks. We went outside and enjoyed a small show put on by the resort.


The sky was nice and dark so I decided to take a drive into the park to find a place without any artificial light. Once there I was stunned by the night sky. The milky way formed a semi-circle across the horizon and almost every star was twinkling. I have never seen the stars like that and it was hard to leave and end the night.

Bryce Canyon National Park

    I had been looking forward to Bryce Canyon since our initial planning of this trip. The pictures always looked amazing so I decided to not show the kids anything about the canyon until we got there. I wanted their first look to be in person.


    We got to the park in the early evening and did our usual visitor center stuff. They had a great setup for kids and all three enjoyed the prairie dog town that they could crawl through. Sully talked me into buying him a hiking pole with the promise that he would walk with it instead of riding on my shoulders.

    After we set up camp, we took the short drive to the rim of the canyon. It was impressive. The late light hit the strange rock features called hoodoos and gave them a great orangish glow. The kids could see people walking down among them and were excited to find out that we'd be hiking down there in the morning.


   The weather was cooler than Zion so we enjoyed a nice night without the rain fly on the tent. I woke up early and climbed up the hillside behind our campsite to the edge of the canyon. I was the only person up there for the sunrise and it was the most peaceful experience. Kids and canyon edges don't make for a relaxing experience so I was glad to be alone for a little bit. To top it all off, birds were very active and I found two new species to add to my list.

    I returned to the tent to find everyone still sleeping so I got our food out of the car before waking them. We had a quick breakfast and then returned to the canyon so we could beat the crowds. The trail entering the hoodoos was steep and full of switchbacks so the kids had fun going down. It was really magical having those tall walls of rock surrounding us as we wandered down the path. We took a side trail for a short distance into the canyon floor where it turned into a pine forest before returning to the loop trail around the rock formations.


    The trail ascended through more hoodoos with even steeper switchbacks, but somehow Sully powered through it with the aid of his new hiking pole. To get back to the top all three kids climbed over 560 feet without our help. My arms and shoulders thanked them when we finished the loop. It was a group consensus that Bryce Canyon was our favorite hike of the trip and the park joined Theodore Roosevelt as a frontrunner for best park. It'll be a hard one to beat!

Zion National Park

    We left Las Vegas and returned to the main focus of our trip. Our goal for the day was to cross into Utah and begin our tour of its five national parks. First up was Zion. As soon as we crossed the border, the scenery began to improve. The ride to Zion took us into multi-colored canyons and large expanses of sagebrush.


    The town just outside of the park was very pretty and if we ever return a hotel would be nice. It looked like there was plenty to do and they definitely have some high-quality zoning regulations! The park itself was very crowded and shuttles were the only way to access the main part of Zion Canyon. 


    We didn't have the time to do that so we stuck to the scenic drive. The highlight of the drive had to be the mile-long tunnel through the mountains with windows carved out of the rock. We stopped for a picnic lunch and the kids ran around on the rocks for awhile before the heat got to us. 


    The park was definitely too busy for our liking, but the scenery was impressive. We tried for a little hike before leaving, but Ri fell and hurt her knee so we cut that short. We'll return one day to better appreciate what Zion has to offer. 

Thursday, July 21, 2016

Las Vegas


    We enjoyed a couple of days of relaxation at Las Vegas before returning to camping. The kids got to see all of the bright lights and we enjoying some overpriced meals before my skills at the roulette table paid for our visit. The pool was a big hit and we got to see the fountain show at the Bellagio. I've already said too much; what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas so I'll just post some pictures.


These kids are money and don't even know it!


Death Valley National Park

    After leaving the mountains we found our way into the Mojave desert. It was a nice surprise to see Joshua trees growing along the highway. They really are cool looking plants. It was definitely a barren ride to the park, but the scenery was beautiful in its own subtle way.

    Before getting to the park, we were driving along a desert valley when a weird bird-like shape caught my eye. As we quickly approached it I thought it might be a drone until its shape turned into a fighter jet. It was flying low and we were amazed when it shot past us. The sound followed not long after. It was the highlight of the day for us. Definitely a unique experience!


    When we got out of the car to take a picture the hot was oppressive, but we didn't know what was in store. We had to drive out of the valley we where in and over a mountain pass to get to Death Valley. Along the way we passed lots of runners being followed by vans. It was the Death Valley ultra-marathon. These crazy people were running 135 miles in this furnace!


    We came along massive sand dunes on the way to the visitor center and Emma was finally appeased and believed we were in a desert. The visitor center is located in a place called Furnace Creek and it lived up to its name. It was harsh just getting to the doors in the 118 degree heat. Inside we enjoyed a bunch of displays and a short movie about the history of the place. Down the road we stopped for ice cream that quickly melted.


    Our last stop was Badwater Basin. It is the lowest point in the country and the heat there was the worst. Ri and I were the only ones to venture out of the car and walk out to the salt flats. Ri made the mistake of touching the ground with her hand and paid for it with a yelp as she recoiled from the heat.
We left the park after that and headed for the relative cool of Las Vegas.

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks

    We left Aunt Carol's and began heading south before our eventual turn back east. Our first destination was Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. They share a common border and are run jointly by the Park Service so it would be an easy way to do two parks in one day.


    There were more curvy roads through desert-like brush as we arrived at the gate and the heat felt pretty harsh after being in the bay area. We got our books stamped and I picked up another patch for my collection before heading higher into the mountains. It would be cooler up where the big trees grow, but we had to deal with miles of windy mountain roads first. The scenery was magnificent though and the Sierra Nevadas were reminiscent of Yosemite, but without the amazing formations.


    Beautiful bald granite peaks were in view most of the time as we crept over 7,000 feet in elevation.  We started the day at sea level so that was quite a trip for the car. We made it to the trailhead for the General Sherman sequoia tree and had a late lunch. The General Sherman is the largest tree in the world and the crowds around us attested to its popularity. It was a short hike down to the tree and it really is impressive how big they get. The kids had fun running around the base of a few other sequoias before heading back up. The hike back up was a little harder because of the elevation, but mostly due to the forty pound weight sitting on my shoulders that likes to talk nonstop.

General Sherman
    We drove into Kings Canyon and enjoyed the views. There were more sequoias in that park as we wound down the other side of the mountains. After a couple of hours we eventually made it back to flat ground and straight roads. We found a hotel for the night after traveling half the length of California. All in all a great day!

Monday, July 18, 2016

Point Reyes National Seashore

    We decided to take the kids to Muir Woods National Monument since they couldn't see the Golden Gate bridge the other day because of fog. Unfortunately, Muir Woods was so crowded that the nearest parking available was over two miles away from the entrance. So we changed plans and drove north to Point Reyes National Seashore.

    It turned out to be a great decision and we wound up having a great day. We took the route that led us along the shore and found a group of harbor seals loafing on the shore. Not far from there, the road rose above the cliffs and we had dramatic views of the ocean as we drove. At one point, we came around a curve and had a coyote standing in the road.

    Once we arrived at the visitor's center the kids ran around looking at all of their displays. It was definitely the best visitor center we have seen to date. We then took a long drive out to a beach where there is an elephant seal colony. Along the way Adrienne found two elk and everyone got great looks at them. Their antlers were really impressive.


    The hike down to an overlook of the elephant seal colony was an easy one and I got to see a good variety of seabirds along the way. The seals would occasionally make sounds that really carried. Once we spotted them it was fun watching them loaf on the beach and try to move around. Two males were half-heartedly fighting in the water to add to the fun.


    We had to head back home though and we found this great little place for dinner. We all had sandwiches before making our way to the Golden Gate bridge. The fog was really rolling in as we crossed and the girls loved it. Sully had dozed off in his seat and missed the bridge along with the ride through San Francisco. The Bay bridge was lighted up beautifully as we crossed back into the Oakland area and we ended a great day by letting the kids fall right into bed.


Pinnacles National Park

    For my birthday I wanted to go looking for California condors down in Pinnacles National Park. The drive from Alameda would take a couple of hours and it was going to be a hot and difficult hike so we left the kids behind with Aunt Carol. Pinnacles is also the newest National Park in the system so it would be great to cross it off of my list.

    It was a nice drive and just outside of the park I found a prairie falcon darting around a field. By the time I had pulled over, it had found some sort of rodent and dove to the ground. We got to watch for a couple of minutes as it had breakfast. a covey of quails ran across the road not far away.

    Once in the park, we had a little issue reading the map and started our hike from the wrong parking lot. This added almost three miles to where I wanted to be in the mountains and the day was quickly heating up. But the birds were everywhere as we walked up a canyon. Once we got to the trail that led to the condor overlook all we could do was hustle from one shady tree to the next.

    We never did see a condor but since they're part of a breeding program due to their endangered status I wouldn't have been able to count them anyway. Just would have been cool to see the biggest bird species in the country soaring around. As a consolation I saw plenty of California scrub-jays, California quail, California thrashers, and California towhees. Not quite as good as a California condor though!

    I left Adrienne on a bench at the upper parking area and hiked the rest of the way back to the car. I don't think I've ever hiked in such heat before and it was a brutal few miles. I was very happy to see the car and enjoyed the air conditioning as I drove to pick up Adrienne. It was definitely an adventure and I couldn't ask for anything more for my birthday!

San Francisco

    Aunt Carol had taken the week off from work so she acted as our tour guide for a visit into San Francisco. The kids were excited to take the ferry across the bay and we all stood outside along the rails so we could get good views of the city as we approached.


   Our first stop was Pier 39 and the kids immediately found a carousel to ride on. After that we found a restaurant for lunch and enjoyed a feast of seafood. We explored the pier for a little bit and then made the pilgrimage to Ghirardelli for some ice cream. The kids loved the size of their scoops and all happily ate until their lips were covered in chocolate.


    We made our way back down to the waterfront and found a museum run by the National Park Service. It had a great set of displays describing the history of the bay area and all of the preserved areas around it. The kids loved seeing all of the old boating stuff. We crossed the street so the kids could see some old wooden ships.


    On our way back to the ferry we stopped to watch a street performer do a juggling bit while on a tiny little stand. The kids enjoyed it, but the next guy down the street was doing magic tricks and Sully was bummed that we didn't have any more time to stop. The ferry ride back was pretty empty so we got seats up front and relaxed for the short trip. It was a good day in the city.

U.S.S Hornet

    Our first day in Alameda was spent relaxing and emptying out the car. It's amazing how much stuff we had shoved in there for the first part of the trip. Once that was done we drove over to Oakland for a late lunch along the waterfront followed by a treat of ice cream. We finished the day by grilling with Aunt Carol.

    The next day the kids were anxious to get to the pool so headed over there for a bit. We let them play in the water until lunch time and then returned home to clean up before heading out. Our first stop was a walk along the shore at a place called Crab Cove. It had a nice little nature center there where the kids got to touch some shark skin and see some of the fish that inhabit the bay.


    After that we drove up to the old navy base for a visit to the U.S.S. Hornet. It's an aircraft carrier from World War II that is now a museum. Not many people were there so we basically had the place to ourselves. A guide brought us around the ship and the kids got to do fun stuff like steer the boat and sit in the captain's chair. There was even a cockpit from a fighter jet that they all climbed into.


    It's amazing how many rooms and hallways can be squeezed into a place. It's a huge ship, but everything was still maximized for space and I brushed the top of my head through quite a few places. The girls liked going down the steep steps while we held our breath to make sure no one fell.


    One of the coolest things about the Hornet was finding out about it's connection to the first moon landing. They were the ship that picked up the astronauts' capsule and hosted the President as they returned. A replica of the capsule along with their quarantine quarters were on the ship along with a bunch of planes and helicopters that once flew from the deck. It was a fun and unexpected trip for us.

Wednesday, July 13, 2016

Redwoods National Park

    Redwood National Park is located along thin stretch of the northern California coast and is mixed in with several state parks that protect the giant trees. Unlike the other parks we've been to there is no main entrance, but the road allows you to pull off for trails and several visitor centers. We made it to one of the visitor centers a little before closing time and the kids and I got our park passport books stamped before headed to a grove of redwoods.


    Our goal was to hike the Lady Bird Johnson grove trail. It circles some of the biggest trees in the park and the kids loved stretching their legs as they ran from tree to tree. There were several gigantic stumps that had the insides hollowed out which allowed them to clamber in and gaze upward while hiding from us.

    Sully wound up on my shoulders after a while, but his endurance is improving little by little. The girls have been great and usually take the lead on our walks. It was a nice trek through some unique trees but we still had a long way to go in the car. It was decided that we would make a big push and drive to Aunt Carol's house that night.

    Driving half the length of California is no big deal for us at this point in the trip, but the winding road made for a long night. We arrived in the middle of the night and promptly collapsed onto beds and couches. It felt great after a week of camping!